Greg Miller has been the warehouse manager at Rab/ Lowe Alpine for the past five years. He started climbing in 1998 at the Gunks in New York, and since moving to Colorado in 2006 he climbs locally a lot, but enjoys Utah desert tower climbing the most and goes every chance he can.
The new CAMP Tricam EVO has taken the original design and fixed the flaws of these classic pieces of protection. A stiffer sling making one-handed placements easier, a small taper to the Tricam gives it a better sideways passive placement, and comes in a nice array of sizes: 0.25, 0.5, 1.0, 1.5.
Though Tricams may be considered a specialty piece by some, they excel in horizontal placements and pin scars. They are a key piece on a lot of clean aid routes; especially in the desert where pin scars have been blown out and, most likely, nothing else will fit. In a place like the Shawangunks in NY, it is not uncommon to see people with double pink and red Tricams, because they fit so well into horizontal cracks. They also make a good addition to an alpine rack, because they are so versatile and light. One piece that can act as a cam or nut: what could be better?
The new Tricam design offers a bit more of a taper than the older style when placed sideways and passively. Though this does not replace the need for offset nuts, it does give it more versatility and the ability to be placed in two different passive modes. They are also light and relatively inexpensive, making a nice addition to a set of nuts. With the stiffer sling I would recommend adding a quickdraw or extended runner to avoid the Tricam “walking’’; though if set well, these things are bomber. Cleaning them might be a learning curve, but with a little patience they aren’t bad.
The only down side to the new Tricams are that the slings are fully sewn, unlike the old style that had two clip in points (one closer to the Tricam). Though this wasn’t totally necessary, it did come in handy aid climbing where every inch counts. That being said, since it was rarely used, the new stiffer slings make one handed placements much easier.
Extremely durable, versatile, and inexpensive; these time-tested pieces of protection are surely not to disappoint!
• New for 2013
• Three (yes, that’s one additional!) placement modes: active cam and 2 passive chocks
• Works where nothing else can fit, such as solution pockets
• Excellent in horizontal cracks
• Features new, stiffer sewing on the slings for easier one-handed placement and extraction