Craig DeMartino has been a climber for the past 24 years. He climbs around the US and the world chasing routes of all types… In 2002 he was accidentally dropped 100 feet onto the talus of Rocky Mountain National Park which resulted in the loss of his leg, a fused back and neck, and a lifetime of chronic injuries. It is also what led him to Paradox Sports. He leads clinics for Paradox teaching other disabled climbers how to get back to climbing, and life, with humor, psych, and a love for their new “normal”. Craig was the first amputee to climb El Capitan in Yosemite in under a day, part of the team on the First All Disabled Ascent of El Cap, and a Bronze Medal winner in the Paraclimbing World Championships in France. – Paradox Sports
I believe in the little things, things that make my life easier and more efficient. I also believe that because I tore my foot up badly in a groundfall climbing accident, ‘easy’ and ‘shoe comfort’ wouldn’t be used in the same sentence.
I was wrong on both accounts.
I’ve been wearing the Arc’Teryx Acrux FL Approach shoe for about two months now, and I am the first to admit, I’m super picky with shoes because of the foot trauma I had. I can usually wear shoes about a month and then my foot and ankle hurt so I have to try different shoes. In the interest of full disclosure, I’ve also been an athlete for Arc’Teryx for the past 9 years, and I’ve been hearing about these shoes for a long time. I wanted to test them with no ties to the company, just a straight-up beat-down, and I couldn’t be more stoked.
I used them on trips to Lander where the approaches were about 2 miles, uphill and on dirt and rocks, and they handled great. They have a built-in sleeve that works like an inner sock. It stays tight on your foot and keeps rocks and dirt out as well as regulates temperature in the foot.
The lug sole is beefy and I like that for carrying heavy loads to the cliff as well as just everyday walking. They are making several pairs now which can been seen at www.arcteryx.com but the Acrux is the one I really liked. It’s not the lightest shoe out there, but its simplicity of design and function far outweigh any setback from the few extra ounces, and the durability seems to be fantastic.
With the shoes, I’ve teamed the Bastion Long Short, a short with a bit longer inseam so it sits about at my knee.
I like this for a few reasons. When wearing a climbing harness, the short doesn’t bunch up on me and get too short on my leg revealing my ultra-white thigh, not a pretty sight for anyone. Also, when I’m bouldering, the short’s length is nice as it protects my knees and also moves out of the way easy since it’s a bit baggy in the fit. When I say baggy, don’t worry, it follows with the Arc’Teryx fit-philosophy in that they are tight where they should be and loose where you need the room. The fabric, which is a nice cotton blend, feels great after washing and holds up even when scraped up and down rock faces. They also look great climbing or when I’m taking the wife out on the town. The combo of the shorts and shoes makes for a powerful pairing that can handle just about anything I seem to throw at them. Simple, efficient , like I said, they can go together in the right package.
Want Arc’Teryx at pro price on Outdoor Prolink? Contact them today and tell them why you love Prolink! Propurchase@arc’teryx.com (be nice)