ProView- Five Ten Approach Pro
This summer I got to check out the 5.10 Approach Pro shoe. A lighter approach shoe that definitely holds its own against other “cruiser” style approach shoes. Saving weight on your feet while not sacrificing stickiness. Since I am picky about shoes, I made sure to really put these through the ringer.
The pair I picked was the burgundy color, which was pretty sharp and has resisted most fading after a lot of heavy use. Especially after dealing with the dust on numerous dusty trails. The color was even complimented on several times through use.
I found them pretty true to size to most other brands that I’ve worn. Although, if I was going to climb in them more I probably would have wanted half a size down. For hiking, however, I was glad to stay to my running shoe size. The lacing and flexibility of the upper allows for plenty of adjustment to fit well along the length of the foot. With some lacing work I was able to get thick socks under to comfortably wear these in a range of temperatures. With other approach shoes I’ve worn I have had to get a larger size for cold days to fit wool socks. Getting them on and off when tied to be tighter I would have liked a second pull loop aside from just the one by the inside of the ankle. Maybe, it was just a complication from my habits, but I’m still reaching for spots without a loop when getting the shoes on and off.
Most cragging days these offered enough support under foot. The lightness of the shoe would warrant against using these if you’re going to have a lot of extra weight on your back. But, for those light days the Approach Pro hikes well on trail and pavement, and smears well on slabs. Edging requires a fair amount of focus with the more rounded edge under the power point, but can be done through easy to moderate 5th class climbing. The rubber that wraps up along the side of the toe box definitely helped in cracks, especially for thin hands to hands.
The Approach Pro is actually the first lightweight approach shoe I wasn’t able to completely destroy in less than a single season, and that is with wearing them almost exclusively with few exceptions. After many many miles there is still a fair amount of cushion in both the heel and forefoot. And the rubber under the ball of the foot has worn past the dots, but is still climbing pretty well. I have had some delamination of the rubber am under the heel and between the upper and the toe box rubber. My biggest durability issue is with the laces, mine have worn almost to the point of tearing through in several spots, and I often need to retighten my knots on longer days, even with double or triple knots.
The Final Word
All in all, the Approach Pro is the new standard for lightweight approach shoes. They’re better than every other cruiser I’ve worn in almost all respects. I am curious how much more abuse I can put these through before I have to retire them, and when I need to pick up my second pair. For single days out and light and fast days getting to and from the rock these are the new standard.
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Sean Smith is your definitive climbing nerd. Whether it’s about gear or techniques, or the geology and the history of a route, Sean eats it up and will talk your ear off about it, if you let him. Sean has over 5 years of indoor and outdoor guiding experience, having coached youth and adults, including several national qualifiers, and most recently working with Movement Climbing and Fitness as well as guiding for Denver Mountain Guiding.